i got it from socal constrictors at the reptile show at san diego. i pick it up knowing it was a weird eatter. They told me that you have to throw the rat in the water and have other snakes feed around it and dim the lights. sounds crazy but its the only way it will eat. i had tried for actually 4 weeks to feed it and didnt want to. finaly i got a thawed rat threw it in the bowl, left the bowl on the heat mat and it started going for it. didnt even strike it just started swallowing it.
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Ricky's Reptile Enclosures
Installing the Heat Mat you can YOU CAN FIND THE ENCLOSURE AT: rickysreptileenclosures.com He is very helpful in basically anything you need to know about ball pythons and the products needed to have a happy pet thanks for watchin ;)
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Tuesday, December 20, 2011
What Type of Food Do Turtles Eat
What do turtles eat? It depends on the type of turtles, how old they are and where they are located. Generally, turtles are carnivores when they are young. However, they turn into omnivores or herbivores when they grow up and mature, depending on their type.
To answer the question "What do turtles eat?" we'll start by listing the common types of turtles and what they like to eat:
o While River Cooter turtles feed primarily on plants, Map turtles and Malayan Box turtles eat meat and lots of plants.
o American Box turtles feed on anything it gets.
o Meat forms the principle diet of the Chinese 3-Striped Box turtles.
o The Red-Eared Slider turtles end up being omnivores on maturity after starting off eating bugs and worms when they are young.
o Snapping turtles look for small creatures to eat, while most other turtles simply eat plants.
o Most turtles eat shellfish, insects, water plants or fish.
o To ward off predators, turtles often eat poisonous plants like poisonous rhubarb, ivy and avocado found near their habitat.
o Pond turtles in the US eat from a wide list consisting of insects, arthropods, small shellfish, snails, worms and small fish.
o Poisonous plants should not be in a pet turtle's diet as the owner may not know which plants they were acclimatized to in their natural surroundings.
o What pet turtles should eat is good and healthy food. If you bought the turtle from a pet store, they most likely also sell the food that the turtle eats.
o Aquatic turtles eat aquatic aquarium plants, small live fish, dried shrimp and floating turtle pellets found at the pet store.
o Land turtles eat special pellets made for land turtles. While some eat worms, others eat fruits, vegetables, and meal worms.
o Processed foods with high contents of salt and preservatives run a risk of damaging the turtle's digestive system.
o Milk or dairy products can make them sick and should be totally avoided as their stomachs lack the enzyme for breaking down lactose.
o Turtles sometimes eat fruits such as bananas, grapes, mangoes, blueberries, apples, strawberries and other citrus fruits.
o Turtles can also eat chicken, turkey, cooked fish in small quantities, mealworms, boiled eggs, earthworms, silkworms, shrimps, snails and crickets. Raw meat with too much fat can get contaminated and
should be avoided.
o Domestic turtles eat leafy vegetables like carrot tops, fig leaves, red and green lettuce, corn, green bean and peas, beets, squash, okra and plantain weed.
o Turtles also love to eat flowers like roses, pansies, petunias, borage, geraniums, carnations, hyssop and nasturtium.
o Phosphorus goes with the kind of food preferred by the turtle, but you should take precautions and watch out for the calcium intake and minerals like vitamin D3 in the turtle's diet as they have a direct bearing on its health. Vitamin D3 can be given as a dietary supplement if your turtle is lacking the vitamin. Exposure to sunlight or reptile light also helps in producing it in the turtle's body.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Baby First Corn Snake
My first ever reptile - this 4m old amelanestic corn snake - he's called Cornflake due to the Cornflake patterns and he has a 'C' on his head :)
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Sunday, December 11, 2011
The Complete Beginners Guide To Keeping Snakes
The beauty of keeping reptiles is that once you've set up their caging requirements and learned a few basic skills, there are many species that can be safely and efficiently kept within the home and should live out a full, healthy life.
Fortunately the vast majority of the suitable snakes one might choose to keep, such as corn snakes, king snakes or milk snakes, require very little special treatment and soon become very low maintenace captives.
Quiet, well-behaved, not requiring regular walks and virtually scent-free whilst being unusual and fascinating, snakes can be an ideal pet for today's ever-busy lifestyle.
At it's simplest, a glass fish tank with a specially-sold reptile hood or one of the specially made reptile cages (such as those available from PetSmart may be used, and these are often available for sale second hand in local papers.
Wooden cages should be avoided unless they are treated so as to avoid any spillage from the water bowl (many snakes like to bathe) and ventilation should be good as moist cages often lead to skin complaints or respiratory problems.
A length of around 30-45 cm is suitable for a hatchling snake whilst an adult will require a length of 60-90 cm so it can stretch out.
The cage should be furnished with one of the reptile-safe substrates such as beech chippings or corn cob granules and should be placed 1/3 - 1/2 over a safe, specially-sold, low-wattage heat mat to gently warm the substrate for the snake.
These cost just pennies to run each day and generate a gentle background warmth for your pet.
In particularly cold situations such as bad weather, during night-time or in a room which doesn't warm up appreciably during the day an additional form of heat is recommended, such as a gauze-encased lightbulb, to warm the warmer end of the cage (the "hot spot") to around 24-26'C.
This temperature should be maintained at one end of the cage throughout the day though this may drop by a few degrees at night without worry of danger to your pet. If using a bulb a thermostat is recommended to enable you to accurately control the temperature and prevent the cage overheating.
A hide should be included as snakes are often quite reclusive and like to hide away for much of the day, showing themselves early in the morning and later in the evening.
This could be a specially-sold reptile hide but I often simply use a box - like an old cereal box - as they're free and easily replaced when they get dirty.
A solid waterbowl - ideally a terracotta dog bowl - large enough for the snake to submerge itself in (bathing is good for the skin) but difficult to tip over should be filled with fresh water and changed daily as in a warm environment plenty of water is likely to evaporate, and in addition many snakes like to defecate in their water bowl.
And apart from some food you're now all set up!
As you can see keeping the smaller, more docile snakes *doesn't* have the break the bank, nor do you these days need to "make do" with substandard products. Companies like ZooMed make high quality, specialist hardware for just this purpose, and make it available for a very reasonable cost.
Now all you need to do is to convince your girlfriend/wife/mother to let you have the snake itself;-)
Copyright 2006 Richard Adams
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Thursday, December 8, 2011
New Leopard Gecko - Shyla! AND! Stick Bugs Need Identifying??
Sorry I look hideous - I just had a shower. The first part was taken on Sunday, and the second part (with the bugs) was taken today. All the items I got for free: -15 gallon tank -tank lid -2 hides (1 humid, 1 cool) -2 water dishes -heat mat -heat lamp -huge container of calcium -unopened bag of sand -cricket water gel And also, please help me identify these stick insects!!! There are over 2000 species, but only a few common kept as pets! Help, please???? Enjoy! :)
Monday, December 5, 2011
Corn Snakes
Corn snakes are the most popular pet snake there is, and for a very good reason. These are snakes with a very good temper, and they are very easy to keep in an enclosure. Their adult size will usually be between 4 to 6 feet, and they have a very slender body type. The "original" corn snake has a black and white checkered pattern on their bellies that resembles a corn cob. I say original because corn snakes have been bred to get the most amazing colors and patterns; spotted, striped, no pattern, and all kinds of colors. Even pet shops usually have a wide variety of these "morphs".
Corn snakes live for a long time, around 15 to 20 years, so keep this in mind when buying one. In this care sheet I will try to explain the most important sides of having a pet corn snake.
Setup
When you get your first corn snake, it is important that you have its setup ready.
First they need a tank to live in, a ten gallon tank is a good size for a young one. Then you increase the size of the tank up to 20 or 30 gallon when it reaches adult size.
At the bottom of the tank you need substrate. You could use newspaper or plain paper, but a better choice is aspen wood shavings. The snake might burrow in it, it's very easy to clean and it even helps the snake shed by allowing it to rub against it. There are also specially designed reptile carpets you can get, but whatever you choose just remember that cedar is poisonous to snakes, and pine can dehydrate their skin. Most stores have aspen, and it's cheap and easy so I would say go with that.
One of the most important things, especially for a young corn snake is a hide. A lot of people forget just how important this is. The snake needs to feel safe, and a large empty tank will make the snake very stressed. I can guarantee you that the hide will be the one thing that your snake will use the most. For a hide you can use a box with a hole at the side, a flower pot with a hole at the bottom turned upside down, or you can buy a more fancy one at a pet store. Even an empty toilet roll will work! You should have at least two hides, one on each side of the tank; one on the cool end, and one on the warm end.
This leads me to the heat source. Unless you live where it's very warm you should have some sort of heat in your tank. Snakes need heat to properly digest their food. A good choice is an UTH(under tank heater). This is a mat specifically designed for reptiles, and you put it underneath on one side of the tank. This will give the snake a gradient in its tank, a difference in temperature on the two sides. Alternatively you could use a heat lamp, but this option will not give the snake any belly heat, so an UTH is the best option. It's important to remember that the UTH can get very hot, if left without a thermostat it can reach up to 120 fahrenheit! This is of course too hot, and will cause severe burns. So make sure you have plenty of substrate to prevent the snake from laying right on the glass. If you buy a thermostat, a meter that will control the temperature you will save yourself a lot of worries as even with enough substrate on the bottom the snake can still burrow down to the bottom. Snakes are "stupid" in the way that they will not notice that they burn their skin until it's too late. will give you an OK thermostat, and is well worth its price. If you live in hot areas you'll probably be fine without a heat source, but for most you should definitely get one.
A meter to measure the temperature and humidity is also important. Humidity is vital for a healthy shed, so when you see that your snake is going to shed increase the humidity to around 65-70%. A simple way to do this is to mist the tank with a spray bottle, or to put a wet towel over the lid. The wet towel will quickly increase the humidity, when it reaches the level you want simply replace it with a dry towel covering 3/4 of the top. This will help keep the humidity in, without getting 100%. Extended periods of high humidity can lead to sickness, so keep the humidity high only when its shedding.
Water must always be available, and the size of the water bowl should enable the snake to soak its body in it. You can buy one from a pet store, but a kitchen bowl will work just as well. Just make sure that the snake does not tip it over. This should be placed on the cool end, opposite of the cool hide.
A secure lid is of course a must-have. Petco has clips for that you put on both sides of the lid, and they work perfectly. A runaway snake is VERY hard to find, especially when its young. And even baby snakes can escape through the smallest gap. Our first corn snake managed to escape once, although this was because I forgot to put the lid back on its cage. Needless to say we turned the whole apartment upside down looking for it, seeing as there were three cats trying to get it before we did. Luckily hours later it showed up underneath the vacuum cleaner. So be careful, get the clips and remember to put them on.
A branch to climb on, or fake plants for decor is also something you might add to your setup. Just remember that anything you bring in from outside, or if you buy it used put it in the oven for a couple of hours on 200 degrees (fahrenheit). This will kill any parasites on it. For plastic plants, rinse them out in a weak bleach solution. If you have these things set up, you should be ready for the snake!
Bringing the Corn Snake home
When acquiring a corn snake you have several possibilities. Pet store, breeder or the classifieds.
A breeder will always be the best choice, as you are dealing with people who love the snakes. Corn snake breeding does not take in a lot of money, so you can be sure that the breeder has a passion for these animals. You'll be able to know it's history, sex, date of birth, its feeding records etc. Also you are more protected against parasites. Pet stores usually have a lot of different animals, and their main goal is to make $$. Some stores do take good care of their animals, but unfortunately they are in minority. a lot of people do get their snakes from pet stores, but I would strongly advise you to support the community and buy from a breeder. Buying from the classifieds you never know what you're going to get, you have no guarantee that the seller is telling you the truth. But the choice is yours.
When you bring home the corn snake there will be about a week where you cannot disturb it. The snake needs to get used to its new home, and in the mean time you must leave it alone. By giving the snake a week to settle down, you ensure that you will end up with a healthy, comfortable snake. After a week has passed, take it out on a regular basis, and let it get used to you. At first it might be a little shy and nippy, but don't worry. With handling and time it will settle down and be a wonderful pet.
To pick up the snake try to scoop it up from underneath. A big hand coming directly towards its head might feel threatening, so go in from the side as opposed to from above it. Be careful though, a young corn is very skittish and might try to jump right out of your hand. A fall might seriously hurt it, so be cautious and don't let young children hold the baby snake. If there are young children in the family, wait till the snake has calmed down before they hold it.
Feeding
A week after you brought it home, it should have gotten so comfortable that it will eat. If the corn is stressed or the temperatures are wrong it might not want food, but hopefully this is not the case.
For feedings provide a separate box of some sort, it can be cardboard, tupperware or whatever you have handy. Feeding in the tank is not a good idea, as the snake might digest the substrate which can kill it. Also when feeding in a separate container, the snake won't associate its tank with feeding, so when you go to pick it up you won't be mistaken for food. Hatchlings, that is baby corn snakes, eat one pinkie mouse every four or five days. These newborn mice can usually be bought frozen at pet stores, or you can go online for better deals. Put the pinkie in some hot water for around ten minutes, and make sure that it's completely thawed out. When the snake is in the feeding box, slowly dangle the pinkie in front of it. When the snake strikes, let go and let it eat without interruption. When the the pinkie is swallowed and you can see the lump a good way down its tummy slowly pick up the snake and put it back in its tank.
Now it needs 48 hours to digest the food. Heat plays a crucial role in digestion, as well as leaving it alone for two full days. Digestion takes a lot of energy for snakes, so much that if it doesn't feel safe or is stressed out it might regurgitate the food.(throw up) This is its basic instincts, if it needs to make a safe escape from a dangerous situation (from the snake's view) it cannot do this while digesting, hence the regurgitation. After a couple of days the food should be digested, and you can continue handling until next feeding.
There are problems that might come up with feeding that I will address. Hopefully you won't have to worry about this though. If the snake will not eat, wait five days before trying again. Trying sooner will just stress the snake out even more. A snake is not going to be hurt by going a few weeks without food, so just be patient.
There are different techniques you might try if it really won't eat. First, make sure that the temperatures are good, and that you're not handling it too much. If so, you can put the pinkie and the snake in a brown paper bag, roll up the end so it won't be able to get out and leave it overnight in the tank. You can also try cutting a hole in the pinkie's head hoping that brain matter will lure the snake to eat. Alternatively, soak the pinkie in chicken broth before trying to feed it. If it's been over a month you should consider taking your snake to the veterinarian to check for parasites.
If you experience regurgitation something is wrong and you must fix it. Check your husbandry, look in water bowl for mites, and leave the snake alone until next feeding. Also, make sure that you are feeding appropriately sized mice. When the snake gets bigger, increase the size of the mouse and days between feeding. You can also feed rats; adult corns can have either two adult mice or a small rat every two weeks. If feeding rats, you need to make sure that the snake does not get fat. Rats are a lot more fattening then mice, so if you see that your snake starts to develop hips you should switch to mice.
Other Facts to Remember
Snakes shed as they grow, and it's important that they have good sheds. If the snake has not fully shed its skin, try giving it a bath in luke-warm water, or hold a wet towel around it. You can also put wet paper towels inside its hide to help the snake shed.
If your snake soaks in the water a lot, look for mites. Most often you will be able to spot them in the water. They are small and black or red, with legs. Mites are not because of a dirty tank etc, they probably got it from another reptile. Pet stores have mite treatment that work good, and both the snake, the tank and everything in the tank need to be treated. Also if you have other reptiles, they might have it too. Mites are harmless to humans, but can be fatal to snakes so be sure to treat them as soon as possible.
Wash your hands after touching the snake.
Take lots of pictures, have fun and enjoy your new pet!
Friday, December 2, 2011
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Everything You Need to Know About Choosing Leopard Gecko Tanks
Before you even buy your first leopard gecko, you need to spend some time setting up the tank. A happy, healthy pet all begins with good leopard gecko tanks so you want be sure you pick the right one.
There are a variety of choices of tanks out there, everything from specialty terrariums to fish tanks, there are even special ones that come with rocks built into the back. So which one is best choice for you?
This article will help you explore all your options regarding your tank.
For starters, you'll notice I keep on saying 'leopard gecko tanks' not 'leopard gecko cage'. That's because a Leo, should never be put in a wire cage. It's uncomfortable, hard to heat, and the wires are much too sharp for his delicate feet.
Glass aquariums or terrariums really do work best as leopard gecko tanks. You can go with either one of these, but the main difference is usually the length.
While most 10-20 gallon traditional aquariums are very long, some modern ones are not. Since the gecko cannot climb glass, you don't want the tank to be taller than it is in length. A leopard only has the floors of the tank to explore.
You want to give them as much room as possible. However, if you only have one gecko, I would recommend choosing one that is 20 gallons or less. Although there's a saying that 'bigger is always better' in the case of leopard gecko tanks, it's not.
Oversized gecko tanks can really stress out your leopard gecko. He can become confused as to where he is, unable to find his basking spot, his favorite hiding place or where the food goes. This could lead to a much stressed out Leo making him prone to disease and loss of appetite.
The lid on the tank should really be a wire type, standard with terrariums, but they have to be purchased separately for aquariums. This enables your leopard to get the fresh air he needs. Other things leopard gecko tanks need are lights, heaters, and decorations.
Despite the fact that they are called 'decorations,' they're not really in leopard gecko tanks to be decorative. Leopard geckos are used to things that look like logs, plants, and rocks. That's what would make them the happiest with their new home.
Man-made rocks, logs and plants are actually preferred because real rocks to scratch a leopard geckos sensitive skin while real plants and logs can be quite toxic. It's important that you have enough of them in their so that your Leo can run and play and hide.
Now the flooring of leopard gecko tanks, often called substrate, is also part of 'decoration'. After all, who wants to walk around on glass? This decoration is very specific. You can't just use something like woods shavings or kitty litter; it has to be something dustless that a gecko can't eat. (this kind leaves out sand as well because leopard gecko's can eat it and become very ill when they do.)
The best kind of flooring decoration for leopard gecko tanks is actually artificial turf. Also called reptile mats, these can be purchased in any pet store or even online.
Here are some other things to consider when setting up your pets new home.
It's important that your tanks stay a constant temperature and that the lights go dim and bright at regular times. This is best accomplished by use of a timer. You should also have special reptile lamps over the tank to keep them all warm and toasty, around 80- 87.
There are also special heaters you can buy. It's important that there be one spot in tank that is slightly warmer than the rest of the tank. It should be above 90 but below 100.
This is known as the 'basking spot' and if there's a decoration here it should be a smooth flat thing, like a rock, allowing the gecko to really stretch out and enjoy.
Now that you know the basics of setting up leopard gecko tanks, you can be sure to have it perfect before you add the most important part, your leopard.
Nothing says 'welcome home' to your new pet like the perfect tank.
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Saturday, November 26, 2011
How to accomplish a bootleg calefaction mat
OK when you make it make sure your plastic is snug because its wat keeps the heat in. You have to reheat it every other day. Dont make it too hot to the point it'll burn ur gecko put and extra layer of plastic if you think its too hot.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Keeping Corn Snakes As Pets
As exotic pets go, corn snakes make a good choice for beginners. They come in a variety of colors, are docile by nature and enjoy being handled, as well as being fairly easy to care for. Here are some tips on how to keep a pet corn snake healthy.
To be a responsible pet owner, you will need to be prepared to commit time and energy to caring for your snake. Corn snakes can live for around 18 years, so bear this in mind before you buy one. Reptiles have very different needs to cats or dogs, and you will need to make sure you have the right equipment to provide your snake with a suitable place to live.
You will need to take into account how big your snake could grow. Corn snakes can reach 4-6ft long when mature. They aren't especially active creatures, but will need a reasonably sized vivarium or aquarium with a secure lid. As a guide, for each foot of snake, provide at least 1 square foot of floor space. The height of the tank should be around a third of the snake's length. If you buy your snake as a hatchling, give it a proportionately smaller enclosure to begin with so as to avoid causing it stress.
For the substrate there are various products on sale in exotic pet shops, such as aspen shavings or Astroturf, or you could use paper towels. Make sure you remove any soiled substrate when necessary and disinfect the entire tank every 3-5 weeks, using a reptile-safe solution.
You should provide objects for your snake to hide in, and to climb on, as it would in the wild. For hiding places, you could use small cardboard boxes or toilet roll tubes, or shop-bought hides, which have the advantage of being cleanable so they can be reused. For climbing, branches and rocks can be purchased, or you could use ones from the garden if you sterilise them first to kill any harmful bugs. Plastic plants can be used, as some real plants may be harmful.
Corn snakes ideally need a temperature gradient of 21-30C, providing both warm and cool areas in the tank, so they can thermo-regulate by moving to different areas. To do this, use a thermostatically-regulated heat mat under a third of the floor space.
Corn snakes in captivity can be fed mainly on mice, depending on their size. Hatchlings can eat "pinkies" (baby mice), one every 5-6 days. As you snake grows, it can start to have a larger mouse every 1-2 weeks. Larger snakes may need two mice per feed. It's important to use frozen mice, thawed to room temperature, as live rodents could injure your pet.
With proper care and attention exotic pets such as corn snakes can be fascinating and rewarding animals.
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